Phase 3 – Part 2: Installing Pegboard According to Your Designs
Now it is time to install your Pegboard According to Your Designs and hang your tools. You will need an assistant to complete some of these installation Steps.
In addition to the Materials & Supplies Needed for your Pegboard installations which you have already purchased, you will need the following Tools & Supplies:
Tools & Supplies Needed:
- Safety Glasses
- Mechanics Work Gloves
- Stud Finder
- Roll of Painter’s Tape
- Sharpened Pencil
- Claw Hammer
- 4’ Level
- 25’ Tape Measure
- Chalk Line
- 4’ T-Square
- 12” T-Square
- Compound Miter Saw
- Skill Saw or Jig Saw with Plywood or Crosscut Saw Blade
- Extension Cord for your Power Saw
- Cordless Drill with Quick Change Phillips Drill Bit
- Magnetic Quick Change Extension for the Cordless Drill
- (2) Quick Change Drill Bits (with a diameter equal to or slightly smaller than each of the shafts of the Screws being used)
- Drill Press (optional) (If used, you will need a Bit with a diameter equal to or slightly smaller than the shaft of your Flathead Screws.)
- Saw Horses or Large Cutting Table
- Small A-Frame Ladder or Step-Stool
- (2) Design Plan
- Whisk Broom
- Broom and Dust Pan or Shop Vac
This project will be easier if you have a helper for parts of it. It is very difficult for one person to hold a 4’ x 8’ Board and accurately screw it into place.
Step 1 – Put on Your Safety Glasses and Work Gloves
Always wear Safety Glasses and Work Gloves when working on any project.
Step 2 – Consult Your Design Plans
Consult your Design Plans to see where your pegboard will be installed.
Beginning with your Design Plan for your Primary Base, look at where you are going to install your Pegboard. Then do the same for your Secondary Base.
Step 3 – Locate and Mark Your Studs
If you are installing your pegboard over exposed Studs (no wallboard), skip Steps 3, 4, 5, & 7. If you are installing over wallboard, then continue to read.
Locate and Mark Your Studs where pegboard will be installed in both of your Bases.
Beginning in your Primary Base, take your Stud finder (make sure that your battery is good) and locate all of the Studs in the areas where the pegboard will be installed. Mark each one with a small piece of painter’s tape on the wall. Studs are normally placed 16” on center, but you can’t always count on this. It is best to confirm where each one actually is with your Stud finder.
You will ONLY be installing 1” x 2”s on both ends of each pegboard piece, and at 32” intervals in-between, or at every other Stud. (It is not recommended to exceed this 32” interval, or your pegboard will tend to bow inward when hanging your tools.) Use a small piece of painter’s tape to mark where each edge of each Stud you will using is located (both edges), at both the top and middle of the Stud. Place the tape pieces on the ceiling about 2″ away from the top of where your pegboard will be installed, and about 2” below the bottom edge of where your pegboard will be installed. (If your pegboard is 48” tall, then your bottom tape pieces will be at about 50”.) When finished, remove the initial tape pieces used to mark the location of your 2” x 4”s.
Repeat the process for your Secondary Base, if needed.
Step 4 – Cut 1” x 2” x 8’s in Half
Cut all of your 1” x 2” x 8’s in half for both of your Bases.
Begin with your Primary Base. Check your Materials & Supplies Needed sheet to see how many 1” x 2”s are needed for this Base.
Measure to confirm that your 1” x 2”s are indeed 8’ long (96”). Once confirmed, measure and pencil mark each one exactly at 48”, and using your 12” T-square, pencil a cutting line all the way across.
Once all have been marked, you need to cut them all on the lines that you have drawn. You can do this with a combination miter table saw if you have one. If not, you can use a skill saw or jig saw. If you do not own any power saws, you can cut them by hand. Make sure that you are using a crosscut or plywood blade in your power saw, or a crosscut hand saw.
Also, if you are using a skill saw, make sure that you adjust your cutting depth to about 1″. Make this adjustment with your saw unplugged.
When the 1” x 2”s for your Primary Base have been cut, place them near that Base. Then repeat the process for your Secondary Base, and when complete, place those cut boards near that Base.
Also, cut a single 2” x 4” x 8’ at 48”, and set both halves aside for now. These will assist you later when hanging your pegboard.
Step 5 – Pre-Drill Holes in 1” x 2”s for the Screws
Tip: Pre-Drilling holes in all boards less than 1” thick is always recommended to prevent splitting.
Pre-drill holes in all of your 1” x 2”s for the screws, (4) holes in each board.
You will be using the Flathead Phillips Wallboard Screws to attach the 1” x 2”s to the wall. Find a drill bit that has a slightly smaller diameter than your screw center shaft. (Hold the shaft of the bit over the center (shaft) of the screw. The shaft of the bit should cover the shaft of the screw, but not any of the threaded portion.)
Mark each of your cut 1” x 2”s with a small ‘x’ at 3” and at 17” from each end, giving you (4) marks on each 4’ board. Your marks should be centered widthwise on the boards. Then, install your drill bit into your power drill. Use a scrap piece of 2” x 4” between your 1” x 2” (under your marks) and your table, so that your table is protected when drilling each hole, and drill through each of the (4) marks on your board, making sure that you keep the drill bit perpendicular to the board. (A drill press is ideal for this if you have one.) Brush off each piece with your whisk broom after drilling is complete. Do this for all of your 1” x 2”s for both Bases.
If you do not have any scrap 2” x 4” lying around, you can turn the 1” x 2”s on end, and drill them out that way. Watch where you place your fingers when holding the boards.
Step 6 – Check for Level and Plumb
Check ceiling for level and walls for plumb in all areas where pegboard will be installed.
The purpose of this Step is to hang your pegboard level and plumb. Beginning with your Primary Base, use your 4’ level to check if your ceiling is level above all walls where your pegboard is to be installed. (You will need your small A-frame ladder or your step-stool for this.) If it is NOT level, find the lowest point of all of the walls that you are installing your pegboard on (this should be on the opposite end of the wall showing the most discrepancy in level). Starting from that lowest point, measure and pencil mark for about 1” on each end, where level is at the top of all of the pegboard walls, keeping any adjoining walls in line.
Then, hammer a finishing nail about 1/2” deep, on your mark at one end of the wall. Attach your chalk line to the nail, run it out to the opposite end of the wall, pull it taught, and snap a chalk line all the way across the top of each wall, using your marks as your guides.
Double-check with your level to make sure that your chalk lines are indeed level. If not, wipe the chalk line mark off with a damp paper towel and repeat the process.
(If you are NOT installing your pegboard all the way to the ceiling, you will need to measure down from your level marks, the distance that your pegboard will need to dropped in order to install it at the height that you want it.)
Then, check your pegboard walls for plumb (vertically level) on both edges of each wall, and pencil mark where plumb is (near the top or bottom, wherever the discrepancy is) on each of the edges of all of the pegboard walls. Put a piece of painter’s tape near your mark to remind you of where you have marked. Repeat this process for your Secondary Base.
Depending on how far out of level and plumb you are, will determine how you will address the issue. If you are only off a little bit, say an 1/8” or less, you may choose to just live with the discrepancy and do nothing.
If you are off more than that, and wish to hide the discrepancy, you have two choices for correction. You can either measure and cut your ends and/or tops of your pegboard to fit, or you can install some trim to cover the discrepancies. The choice is ultimately yours. If you are going to cut to fit, see Step 8. If you will be installing trim, refer to Step 11.
Step 7 – Install Your 1” x 2”s
Install your 1” x 2”s in your Primary and Secondary Bases.
Using your cordless drill with phillips drill bit, and your flathead phillips wallboard screws, install screws into all of the pre-drilled holes in your 1” x 2”s, being careful not to screw them in too deep. You do not want the points poking through the other end.
Then, beginning in your Primary Base, line up the top of each 1” x 2” with your top level mark on your wall, and in-between the tape pieces used to mark where each stud is located, or, if due to discrepancies, you are cutting your pegboard top to fit, you will need to trim each of your 1” x 2”s equal to the amount that will be removed from your pegboard.
Then install each of your 1” x 2”s, as close as possible to the center of the 2″ x 4″s that you are using. You will need to use your 4′ level to check each 1” x 2” for plumb before screwing them in.
Screw in each of your screws, making sure to countersink the heads slightly below the face of the boards. When finished, remove all your tape pieces, except for pieces that mark your sides for plumb. Repeat this process for all applicable walls in your Primary and Secondary Bases.
Step 8 – Trim Cutting Your Pegboard
You may need an assistant to complete this Step.
Make any needed Trim Cuts to your pegboard. Check for fit.
Steps 8, 9, & 10 should be completed for the first full sheet of pegboard in your Primary Base.
Then, repeat the same three Steps for each other full sheet being installed in your Primary Base.
Then, repeat the same three Steps for each full sheet being installed in your Secondary Base.
If you are Trim Cutting the top of your pegboard in order to compensate for any level discrepancies, you need to measure the width of the discrepancy, for each pegboard sheet, at the widest point on your wall, and transfer that measurement to the opposite end of the same appropriate edge on your pegboard, making a pencil mark near the end of that edge. Then take your chalk line, and snap a line from your mark to the opposite end (at the edge) of the same edge of your pegboard. This is your cut line.
(If you are out of plumb on your vertical edges, and are installing your pegboard directly over studs, with NO wallboard, you will NOT need to Trim Cut these sides. Your discrepancy will be covered by placement instead.)
If you are using saw horses to place your pegboard on for cutting, set up the saw horses about 5’ apart, and place (2) 2” x 4” x 8’ boards across them near each end of the horses, overlapping them equally. Then place the first sheet of pegboard to be Trim Cut, on to the 2” x 4”s, with the cut line overhanging the 2” x 4” and/or the saw horse (or your cutting table) by about 6”.
Put your safety glasses on, plug in your skill saw or your jig saw (with the correct blade attached), and cut your pegboard. It is best to have a helper holding down the pegboard to keep it from shifting or moving during the cut.
After making your necessary Trim Cut(s) on the first sheet of pegboard, brush off any sawdust with your whisk broom, hoist it in place on the wall where it will be installed, and check it for fit. Then, set it back down, make any additional corrections if needed, and go on to the next Step. For best results, you will cut and hang each full sheet (see the next Step) before moving on to the next full sheet.
Step 9 – Preparing to Hang Your Pegboard Sheets
You will need an assistant to complete this Step.
Prepare to Hang your Pegboard. Gather up the Tools & Supplies Needed from the list below, set your depth gauge on your drill bit, set your nail stops, if needed, and double-check each pegboard sheet for fit.
Gather up the following tools to complete this Step and the next Step:
- Tape Measure
- Claw Hammer
- 1” long or longer Finishing Nail
- Cordless Drill with a Magnetic Quick Change Extension
- Quick Change Phillips Drill Bit
- Quick Change Drill Bit with a slightly smaller diameter than your #10 Roundhead Phillips Wood Screw’s center shaft
- #10 Roundhead Phillips Wood Screws (with optional washers)
- Small A-frame Ladder or Step-Stool
If you are using Washers with your #10 Roundhead Phillips Wood Screws, install a Washer on to each of the Screws needed to hang your first sheet of pegboard in your Primary Base, and place them in a container near your install spot. (You will need 16 Screws for each 4’x 8’ sheet of pegboard.)
Take a small piece of painter’s tape, your tape measure, and the appropriate quick change drill bit that you will use for pre-drilling your holes, measure 1″ from the tip, and wrap the tape tightly around the drill bit (This will be your depth guide for pre-drilling your holes.).
If you have a level discrepancy at the top of your first sheet of pegboard, and have chosen NOT to trim cut, then take your (2) 1” long or longer finishing nails, and hammer them into your level mark for that sheet of pegboard, about 1’ in from the edge, on one or both ends as applicable. You only need to hammer them in about 1/2” deep. This will serve as a stop when lining up your pegboard. (When you are finished installing each sheet of pegboard, remove the nails. The nail holes will NOT be noticeable, but you can surely spackle them and paint if you choose to.)
Now, get your (2) 4’ long 2” x 4”s that you cut earlier, along with your package of shims and place them near the pegboard installation spot. Lean your 2” x 4”s against the wall about a foot in from each end of where the first pegboard sheet will be installed. The top of your 2” x 4”s should be close, but just below the bottom edge of your 1” x 2”s (within a 1/2”), and the bottom of the 2” x 4”s should be about 2” – 4” away from the wall. If they are too short, place some scrap lumber under each to get them to the right height. If they are too long for your application, cut them to the proper size.
Now, with the help of your assistant, hoist the pegboard on to the 2” x 4”s, lining it up properly on the sides. With your assistant holding the pegboard against the wall, use shims to raise each of your 2” x 4” supports until the top of your pegboard is either touching the ceiling or your nail stops if used.
(The bottom of your pegboard should be in line with the bottom of your 1” x 2”s. If it is not, you will need to either further trim your pegboard, or trim your 1” x 2”s, whichever is causing the issue, or, if you cut off too much of your pegboard, you will just need to drop it down to the lower edge of your 1” x 2”s.)
Make sure that your pegboard is in the proper place, left to right as well. Check the bottom of your pegboard for level using your 4’ level. Make any necessary adjustments at this time.
Step 10 – Hang Your Pegboard Sheets
Screw your Pegboard Sheets to your walls.
With your assistant still holding the pegboard firmly against the wall, you will begin installing your first sheet of pegboard by pre-drilling and screwing along the top. Begin at the left top corner. Locate the hole in your pegboard that is 2” inches from the top, and is closest to 3/4” from the side. (This hole should be approximately centered in your first 1” x 2” width-wise.)
Take your hammer and finishing nail, center the nail inside the pegboard hole that you are using, and center punch a small indentation into your 1” x 2”.
Now, install the drill bit into take your cordless drill, insert it into the indentation, and pre-drill a hole for your screw (Drill only deep enough to come close to the edge of your tape, but do NOT let the tape touch the pegboard, or it may slide up the bit. If this happens, you will need to reset your tape at the correct depth before drilling the next hole).
Now, change over to your quick change phillips drill bit, and install a #10 Roundhead Phillips Wood Screw, (with or without Washers as needed) into the pre-drilled hole . Screw down snuggly, but do not over tighten or you will damage the pegboard.
Repeat this process across the top of your pegboard, going from left to right, in each of the 1” x 2”s, using the same location process as in the first screw installed. Now your assistant can rest. Whew!
Going back to the left side of your pegboard, repeat the center punching, pre-drilling, and screwing process for the (2) remaining screws to be installed in each of your 1” x 2”s at the following locations:
- the middle screw 22 holes down from your top screw
- the bottom screw in the hole closest to the bottom.
Work middle to bottom, and left to right. When all of the screws have been installed in your first sheet, remove any nail stops used, along with any remaining painter’s tape pieces for that sheet of pegboard.
Repeat Steps 8, 9, & 10 for each remaining full sheet of pegboard in your Primary and Secondary Bases. Then measure and cut any remaining sheets of pegboard needed to complete your installation, repeating Steps 8, 9, & 10 for each remaining sheet.
If you are going to paint your pegboard, now is the time to do that. Make sure that you either prime first, or use paint & primer combination type paint. (A satin finish or an egg shell finish will probably be the best.)
Step 11 – Purchase and Install Trim Needed (optional)
Purchase Trim, make the appropriate Miter & Bevel Cuts, and install any Trim needed in both of your Bases, using adhesives or nails.
I have purposely NOT included any Trim in your initial purchase for two reasons. The first being, that if you have chosen to cut your pegboard due to level discrepancies, and your cutting was not accurate, you may want to choose to hide those inaccuracies, at this time, with Trim. The second reason is, that your cutting was so accurate, you have found that you don’t need the Trim, so you would either need to return it or store it.
That being said, if you have chosen to install Trim around the edges of your pegboard, you will need to decide on the type of Trim to use, and purchase it now.
Trim usually comes in: unprimed wood, primed wood, and composite. The composite will come in white or a variety of brown colors. It comes with a glossy surface and does NOT require painting, although you can.
Trim is available in baseboard style of varying widths, and quarter-round style (inside or outside rounding is available). Choose the type(s) and styles that you desire.
You may consider installing the Trim using either carpenter’s wood glue or liquid nails wood adhesive, as nailing the Trim in will prove to be more difficult. Both products come in a squeezable bottle, so no extra tools will be needed for application, except for possibly a nail to poke the sealed end.
Steps for Measuring and Ordering Trim
a. Explore your options and decide on the type(s) and style(s) of Trim that you will use, along with any paint or stain of your choosing.
b. If you will be ordering various types and/or styles, Create a Materials & Supplies Needed sheet and a Project Cost sheet as you did in Part 1 for your pegboard. If not, you can simply just use a piece of scratch paper to record and calculate your needs. See: Steps Common to ALL Projects
c. Measure the lengths needed in both of your Bases, writing down your needs as you measure, rounding up as necessary to the next foot.
d. Calculate the TOTALS for each style and type that you have chosen to use, rounding up as needed. You may want to add 1 or 2 pieces of each style and type of Trim that you will be ordering to cover any possible cutting errors.
e. Add to your list, any paint or stain, adhesive or nails, and any other supplies that you will need, such as: drop cloths, brushes, etc. (If using nails to install your Trim, attempt to color match them to your Trim. They should be 2″ long. You will also need a flathead punch, slightly smaller in diameter than your nail head.)
f. Decide on the Supplier of your choosing, and order your Materials and Tools Needed.
g. Inspect your delivery.
Cutting & Installing Trim – An Overview
The procedure for cutting your Trim will involve making bevel cuts to any top and bottom pieces when installing Trim on adjoining pegboard walls, or miter cuts if you are NOT installing Trim on adjoining walls. This may be a little tricky if you have never done this before, so make sure that you fully understand these instructions before cutting.
If you are at all unsure about cutting miters or bevels, click on the Link to be directed to my Post: How to Make Miter & Bevel Cuts
(If you are NOT installing any top and bottom Trim pieces, you can skip the Miter and Bevel Cuts portion of the Instructions.)
Steps for Cutting & Installing Trim:
a. Measure for you top Trim first, then your bottom Trim, for each of your Bases, writing down your measurements on scratch paper. Beginning in your Primary Base, cut your top Trim to length, adding 1” to your measurements if you are mitering your corners, or add 2” to your measurements if you are beveling corners.
b. Remeasure each top piece for your Primary Base before you mark and cut. Mark and cut each top Trim piece to the correct angles and with the type of cut needed, dry-fit checking each piece as you progress. Repeat the process for your bottom Trim pieces in your Primary Base. Then repeat for any top and bottom Trim needed in your Secondary Base.
c. Then, measure and cut any vertical Trim pieces needed for both of your Bases, dry-fit checking each piece as you progress. You will NOT be mitering or beveling these pieces, so cut these pieces to the exact size that you need.
You will need an assistant to hold your top Trim in place, while dry-fit checking your vertical pieces for size, or you can mark both your bottom and top Trim areas with pieces of painter’s tape to assist you, if NO assistant is available.
d. If required, paint or stain your Trim after cutting and dry-fit checking all pieces, before installing. Only paint or stain the exposed surfaces. Allow at least 24 hours to completely dry before installing.
You may consider installing the Trim using either Carpenter’s Wood Glue or Liquid Nails Wood Adhesive, as nailing the Trim may prove to be more difficult, if you do NOT have an assistant. Both products come in a squeezable bottle, so no extra tools will be needed for application, except for possibly a nail to poke the sealed end.
When using Wood Glue or Liquid Nails, consult the directions on the tube before using.
Spread the adhesive thinly, yet evenly, over the backside of the Trim, keeping the product about 1/4” away from the edges, in order to reduce any leakage when pressing the Trim firmly to the pegboard. Wipe any leakage with a damp paper towel. You can use painter’s tape to temporarily hold the Trim in place while the adhesive is drying. Let it dry for about 24 hours before removing the tape.
f. First, apply your adhesive to the first piece of top Trim to be installed, according to the guidelines listed above. Then, position and press the Trim piece into place, temporarily using painter’s tape to hold the Trim in place while drying. Once you are comfortable that there is no slippage with this first piece of Trim, for at least 10 – 15 minutes, you can repeat the process for each additional top Trim piece needed in your Primary Base. You will need to check all Trim pieces for slippage, multiple times, until fully dried, pressing the Trim firmly to your Pegboard each time, while adjusting it‘s position if necessary. Wipe any adhesive leakage with a damp paper towel as needed. Use additional painter’s tape if needed.
g. Once all of your top Trim has been installed in your Primary Base, repeat the process for all vertical Trim. Then, lastly, install your bottom Trim. Then repeat the process for any Trim needed in your Secondary Base.
If you are using finishing nails to install your Trim, you will need an assistant to help hold each Trim piece in place while you are nailing. Please click the Link to see my post: How to Use Nail Guns if you are using a nail gun to install your Trim.
If hand nailing, it is easiest to start all of your nails in your Trim before actually nailing it in place. You will need to make sure that you position your nails in your Trim, in areas where they will be going into solid wood. Make sure that you hammer your nails to the underside edge of your Trim, but not protruding out.
Then, nail your Trim in place, nailing as close to flush as possible, without denting your Trim, go ahead and countersink each one slightly, using a hammer, and a flathead punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than your nail head. You can touch up the recesses with wood putty or caulk, if you so desire, sanding and painting or staining as needed.
Once all of your Trim has been installed, and 24 hours have passed if using adhesive, you can proceed to the final Step.
Step 12 – Install Your Pegboard Hooks and Hang Your Tools
Install your Pegboard Hooks and Hang Your Tools and Supplies in both of your Bases.
Now that your pegboard is all hung in both of your Bases, it is time to organize and Hang Your Tools and Supplies. Work from left to right, or top to bottom, hanging the largest tools first with the best applicable hooks. Keep like tools near one another, and/or tools commonly used together for typical projects. Once all of the large tools are in place, you can easily fit all of the smaller ones in-between. You can easily move tools around until you are satisfied with their positions.
When Completed, Stand Back and Admire Your Handiwork!
Congratulations on Completing Your Project!
Now clean up any messes and put all tools used for this project in their proper places.
Please take the time to leave a Comment, letting me know how your project went.