How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement

How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement

Part 2

 

You can view all of my Posts by clicking on the following LinkHelpMeFixHome.com

 

Fix cracks - Basement Walls

How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement

 

How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement – Part 1  dealt with attempting to solve your Basement Water Intrusion issues by repairing Foundation cracks from the inside, Regrading and/or Gutter Repairs. If those repairs did not solve your water issue problems, then perhaps you need to repair or replace your existing Foundation Drain Tile.

How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement – Part 2 focuses on repairing cracks from the outside of your Foundation, as well as, replacing your Foundation Drain Tile. In the past, Foundation Drain Tile was made of Clay Pipe, which may have cracked or deteriated over time. This could be a factor in Basement Water Intrusion, usually in conjunction with a crack in your Foundation.

Foundation Drainage Drain Tile Piping is typically 4″ diameter, round, Rigid PVC Piping, in 10 ft. lengths. The Drain Tile Piping is perforated (has holes) to allow water a point of entry, and is immersed in a bed of Gravel, which facilitates drainage. Gravel types vary, but 3/4″ Washed (Clean) Gravel promotes the best water flow. Never use Pea Gravel or Compacted Stone, as these will impede drainage due to the lack of space between the stones.

If you are installing or replacing Foundation Drainage Drain Tile Piping, it may be advantageous to have your Foundation Waterproofed at this time. You will already have the Foundation exposed, so this would be the perfect time to have this Project done. It is best to have a Professional perform this work, in order to guarantee that it is done correctly. It is not a Project that you are ever likely to do again, nor would you want to, due to a faulty installation.

Also, you should really take stock of this Project before you begin to do this on your own. Digging a trench may not initially sound like that big of a deal, until you realize that it will need to be about 24” wide in order for you to comfortably work with the Drain Tile, 4’ – 6’ deep, depending on the type of Basement that you have, and will extend around the entire perimeter of your Home. Not to mention the fact, that you may need to remove several Plantings that are close to your Foundation before you can even begin digging the trench. This is a very time consuming and back breaking undertaking. Make sure that you have several Assistants that you can fully count on to assist you with this Project.

Once all of the Soil is removed and the Drain Tile and Gravel are installed, you will need to put the Soil back in the trench, compacting it down as you go. It will probably be best to get some Professional quotes to see how much money you will actually be saving by doing the digging yourself. If you have a lot of Plantings to remove, this may be enough of a Project in itself.

 

You can find Basement Water Specialists by clicking on any of the following Links:

 

If your problem is not Basement Water Intrusion, but standing water in a certain area of your Yard, then an Underground Drainage System will usually solve your problem.

See my PostFixing Standing Water – Yard

 

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This post will include separate Step-by-Step Instructions for these (2) types of repairs:

  1. Foundation Crack Repair From the Outside
  2. Installation and/or Repair of Foundation Drain Tile

 

Go to the section that best suits your needs.

 

How to Repair Foundation Cracks from the Outside

 

This first type of repair will be for repairing Foundation cracks from the outside, usually, due to the fact that you have a finished Basement, and do not want to disturb your Walls from the inside.

Materials & Supplies Needed:

  • Silicone Concrete Caulk

 

In order to purchase any Materials & Supplies Needed, see the appropriate page in any of the drop-down pages under:  Home Products – Supplies  in my Top Menu.

Scroll down the list to find the correct item. You will find an explanation of that item, as well as, links under each item, which direct you to my Recommended Suppliers for you to check out their offerings.

 

Tools & Supplies Needed:

  • Safety Glasses
  • Work Gloves
  • Work Boots
  • Tarps (number and size dependent on your needs)
  • Long-Handled Digging Shovel
  • Pick Axe
  • Flat Spade Shovel
  • Concrete Chisel
  • Baby Sledgehammer
  • Whisk Broom
  • Caulk Gun
  • Stanley Knife with Razor Blade
  • Long Rod or Nail
  • Hand Tamper
  • Cardboard (to prevent Soil from sticking to Tamper)

 

In order to purchase any Tools & Supplies Needed, see the appropriate page in any of the drop-down pages under:  Home – Garden:  Tools and Equipment List  in my Top Menu.

Scroll down the list to find the correct item. You will find an explanation of that item, as well as, links under each item, which direct you to my Recommended Suppliers for you to check out their offerings.

 

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Step-by-Step Instructions

 

Step 1 – Assess the Project

 

If you have water coming in to your Basement that you feel is from a potential crack in your Foundation, but you have a finished Basement and prefer not to disturb your current Walls, you can make the repair from the outside.

You must first try your best to locate the point of origin of the leak from the inside, and then match up your digging and repair from the outside. Once the point of origin of the leak has been determined, set up your Tarps near the digging area, so that it will be easier to replace the dug out Soil. Depending on the type of Soil that you have, will determine the best Tools to use for digging.

If there are any Foundation Plantings that need to removed prior to your digging, be sure to consult the directions in Step 7 in my Post:  How to Stop Water Leaks in the Basement – Part 1  for instructions on dealing with Plantings.

Step 2 – Create a Materials & Tools Needed Sheet

 

There is only one item that you will need for your Materials for this Project, but also, make sure that you have all of the Tools Needed at your disposal in order to complete the Project.

Step 3 – Calculate Project Cost

Step 4 – Order Your Materials & Tools Needed

Step 5 – Inspect Your Delivery

 

After reviewing the information here, additional information to complete these first (5) Steps is found in the page:  5 Steps for Project Management.  Simply click on that link and you will be directed there.

After completing those first (5) Steps, return to these Instructions and continue on to Step 6 or the appropriate Step to address your issue.

Step 6 – Contact Your Local Utility Locating Service

 

Before you dig, it is always best to contact your Local Utility Locating Service in order to have all of your Utility Lines marked: Electric, Gas, Water, Sewer, Phone, and Cable. Knowing where any and all of these Lines are located is crucial in providing you with a safe digging Project.

 

Step 7 – Dig Out to Find the Crack(s)

 

Match up your probable crack location(s) from the inside to the outside, and remove any Plantings necessary. Set up a Tarp at each location and begin digging until the crack is entirely exposed.

 

  • After removing any necessary Plantings, set up a Tarp at the outside location of each of your potential crack sites.
  • Dig down until the entire crack is exposed at each location, placing your Soil on the Tarp. Keep Clay Soil separate from Black Dirt Topsoil.
  • Repeat as needed for any additional cracks.

Step 8 – Widen the Crack and Caulk

 

Once each crack has been entirely exposed, take your Concrete Chisel and Baby Sledgehammer, and widen the crack to about ¼” wide and ¼” deep. Then, apply your Concrete Silicone Caulk.

 

  • Once your crack has been widened and deepened, take your Whisk Broom and brush out any dust.
  • Then, take your Stanley Knife and cut the tip of your Concrete Silicone Caulk tube, at a 45 degree angle, and down away from the tip in order to have your opening approximately ¼” in diameter. Then break the seal in your tube with a long Rod or Nail. Install the tube into your Caulk Gun.
  • Starting from the bottom and working up to the top of the crack, apply your Caulk. Check the label for cure times before reinstalling the Soil.

Step 9 – Replace the Soil and any Plantings

 

Once the Caulk has had time to cure, replace the removed Soil back to it’s original area, tamping down every few inches as it is installed. Replant any Plantings that needed to be removed in order to make the repairs.

 

  • Once sufficient time has passed for the Silicone Caulk to completely cure (check the tube for this information), begin replacing your Soil a few inches at a time, hand-tamping as you go. Be sure to place your Cardboard between your Tamper and Soil to prevent the Soil from sticking to the Tamper. Be sure to keep your Black Top Soil on top.
  • Then, replant any Plantings that you removed in order to make the repairs. Be sure to thoroughly water them after replanting.

 

In this next set of Instructions, you will learn how to repair or replace your Foundation Drain Tile.

 

How to Install Foundation Drain Tile

 

Materials & Supplies Needed:

  • 4″ diameter, round, Rigid PVC Piping, in 10 ft. lengths (number of Pipes determined by your Home’s perimeter)
  • 4” diameter PVC Sleeves (amount equal to the number of Pipes you will use)
  • 90 degree, 4” diameter PVC Elbows (amount needed determined by the number of corners on your Home)
  • (1) 4” diameter PVC ‘T’ Connection
  • (1) 4” Rubber Sleeve for connecting new PVC Pipe to your existing Clay Pipe
  • (4) 1” x 2” x 24” Stakes or (1) 1” x 2” x 8’ cut into four pieces (if your Home is not a rectangle, you will need additional stakes for each corner of any additional faces)
  • Landscape Cloth or Filter Fabric to cover all of the Pipe (below and above)
  • 3/4″ Washed (Clean) Gravel (amount needed determined by the perimeter footage)

 

See my Post:   How to Calculate Amount of Material Needed   to calculate amount of Gravel needed.

 

In order to purchase any Materials & Supplies Needed, see the appropriate page in any of the drop-down pages under:  Home Products – Supplies  in my Top Menu.

Scroll down the list to find the correct item. You will find an explanation of that item, as well as, links under each item, which direct you to my Recommended Suppliers for you to check out their offerings.

 

Tools & Supplies Needed:

  • Safety Glasses
  • Work Gloves
  • Work Boots
  • Long-Handled Digging Shovel
  • Pick Axe
  • Tarps (number and sizes dependent on your needs)
  • 100’ Measuring Tape
  • Snap-String or Nylon String
  • Line level
  • 4’ Level
  • Saw (Hand Saw or Skill Saw)
  • Hacksaw
  • PVC Pipe Cutter
  • Hand Tamper
  • Pieces of Cardboard (to be used between tamper and ground to prevent soil sticking to the tamper)
  • Stanley Knife with new Blade
  • PVC Cleaner
  • PVC Cement (glue)
  • 8” – 12” long scrap piece of 2” x 4”
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Caulk Gun
  • Water-proof Silicone Caulk
  • Hand Tamper
  • Cardboard (to prevent Soil from sticking to Tamper)
  • Magic Marker

 

In order to purchase any Tools & Supplies Needed, see the appropriate page in any of the drop-down pages under:  Home – Garden:  Tools and Equipment List  in my Top Menu.

Scroll down the list to find the correct item. You will find an explanation of that item, as well as, links under each item, which direct you to my Recommended Suppliers for you to check out their offerings.

 

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Step-by-Step Instructions

 

If you are determined to tackle this project, here are the Steps for completion:

 

Step 1 – Assess the Project

 

You should begin by carefully Assessing the scope of this Project. Since you will need about a 6’ wide area around the entire perimeter of your Home in order to accommodate your trench and the Soil that will be removed, you need to look at the Plantings that need to be temporarily removed and where they will be kept during the construction. You will also need to decide where you will keep the Materials and Supplies Needed, as well as contact your Local Utility Locating Service in order to have all of your Utility Lines marked.

You also need to keep in mind, that you will have approximately 24” wide by 14” deep of Soil left over when the Project is completed. This will be due to the 14” of Gravel that you will install. Either consider installing some raised Plantings Beds somewhere on your Property, or you will need to make arrangements to have the leftover Soil hauled away.

 

 

  • As I have said before, this will be a very labor intensive Project, so make sure that you are up to the task or have plenty of Assistants. You may be able to get a small Backhoe to assist you with at least some of the digging process. Check availability and rental cost at your local rental facility.

 

  • The first thing that you need to determine, is how much Plantings will need to be removed. You will need an area approximately 6’ wide along the entire perimeter of your Home for the trench and Soil placement. You will also need to find a place to keep any Plants that you will be replanting, while the Project is being done. You are probably not going to keep them on your Lawn, unless you are planning to complete this Project within a few days, or damage to your Lawn will occur.

 

  • Before doing any digging, you should contact your Local Utility Locating Service in order to have all of your Utility Lines marked. The last thing that you would want to do is compromise any of your Utilities.

 

  • The next thing that you need to determine, is where you will keep all of the Materials and Supplies Needed for this Project, while you are under construction.

Step 2 – Create a Materials & Tools Needed Sheet

 

You must measure the perimeter of your Home. This measurement will be needed for determining the number of 10’ Pipes that you will need, as well as the amounts of Landscape Fabric and Gravel. For your Gravel, keep in mind that you will be needing to cover a 2’wide area, 14” deep. You also need to count the number of corners in your Home to determine the number of PVC elbows that you will need.

 

  • Begin by measuring the length of your Home’s perimeter. Take your 100’ Tape Measure, and starting at one corner of your Home, measure all the way around until you return to your starting point. This will be your Total Perimeter Length. Write this figure down on some scratch paper and continue using for making all of your other calculations.

 

  • Divide your Total Perimeter Length by 10 in order to determine the number of 10’ PVC Pipes that you will need.

 

  • Your Total Perimeter Length will be the amount of Landscape Fabric needed.

 

  • For the amount of Gravel needed, you will be covering an area 24” wide by 14” deep around your entire perimeter. See my PostHow to Calculate the Amount of Material Needed  for assistance in calculating the amount of Gravel which will be needed.

 

  • You need to count the number of corners for your Home in order to determine the number of PVC Elbows that will be needed. One Elbow needed for each corner. You will also apply this count for your 1” x 2” Stakes.

 

  • Transfer the amounts of each item needed to your Materials and Supplies Needed sheet.

 

Step 3 – Calculate Project Cost

 

Step 4 – Order Your Materials & Tools Needed

Step 5 – Inspect Your Delivery

 

After reviewing the information here, additional information to complete these first (5) Steps is found in the page:  5 Steps for Project Management.  Simply click on that link and you will be directed there.

After completing those first (5) Steps, return to these Instructions and continue on to Step 6 or the appropriate Step to address your issue.

 

Step 6 – Contact Your Local Utility Locating Service

 

Before you dig, you should contact your Local Utility Locating Service in order to have all of your Utility Lines marked:  Electric, Gas, Water, Sewer, Phone, and Cable. Knowing where any and all of these Lines are located is crucial in providing you with a safe digging Project. When you schedule them to come out, make sure that you tell them that you will need an approximate depth of each Utility also, because you have a rather deep excavating Project to perform.

 

  • Once all of the Utility Lines have been marked, you should take Pictures of where these lines are all located, including any reference landmarks that you can incorporate into the Pictures, so you will know exactly where they are located for any future Projects that you may do. File these Pictures in a place that you will remember and have easy access to in the future. You can make any notations that are needed in order to identify their location and depth as well, and keep these notes with your Pictures. You may also want to include Emergency Contact Numbers for each Utility, just in case you should ever need them.

 

  • If your digging will cross any of the Utility Lines which have been located, you will need to proceed with caution when digging, until you find the Line. Then, slowly work around it, being careful not to damage it in any way.

 

Step 7 – Remove All Plants Within 6’ of Your Foundation

 

You will need ample room to install your Drain Tile and stack removed Soil – 2’ wide for your Trench and 4’ wide to stack your removed Soil (This will allow you to stack Soil about 2’ high.), for a total Area of 6’ wide from your Foundation.

 

  • Thoroughly water all Plants within 6’ of your Foundation, 24 hours before you begin this Project, in order to get the Plants as strong as possible before removal (not necessary for any Plants that you do not intend to save).

 

  • This may be a major undertaking if you have a lot of Plants to remove. If so, it is best to have several strong back Assistants to help you with this Project.

 

  • After the 24 hour period has expired, put on your Work Gloves and Work Boots, and using your Long-Handled Pointed Digging Shovel, carefully dig up any Plants that you intend to save within the 6’ area from your Foundation. Place them in a shaded area or cover their root balls with light colored Tarps to help prevent them from drying out while they are waiting to be replanted. You will need to water the root balls every other day until the Plants are replanted, and a thorough watering when they are planted.

 

Continue with the removal, until all necessary Plants have been removed.

Step 8 – Dig Trench Next to the Foundation

 

Once all of the Plants have been removed, cut Tarps into 4’ wide strips or fold them over, and place them end to end, at 2’ – 6’ away from your Foundation. If it is windy, you should place Bricks or Rocks on each Tarp to prevent movement. If you will be renting a Backhoe, now is the time to procure it.

Then, begin digging your trench, approximately 24” wide, at the area where your Drain Pipe enters your Home for the connection to the Sump Pump. Be careful not to damage the end of the Drain Pipe which enters your Home. You will need to connect your new Drain Pipe to this existing Pipe. If you are using a Backhoe to dig, keep an eye on your depth, so that you can dig the last few inches by hand to prevent damage. Continue to dig around your perimeter until all existing Drain Tile is fully exposed.

 

 

  • Once your Tarps are in place, begin digging your trench at the point where you Drain Tile enters your Home, placing the removed Soil onto your Tarps. You will want to keep your Black Dirt Topsoil in separate piles from your Clay Soil base. Once you begin seeing that all of your Black Dirt Topsoil has been removed and Clay Soil appears, take a depth measurement and make a mental note of this or mark it down on your scratch paper. It will be important when returning the Soil to the trench, since there will be Soil left over.

 

  • Continue digging around the perimeter of your Home until all existing Drain Tile is exposed.

Step 9 – Remove Any Existing Clay Drain Tile & Repair Any Foundation Cracks

 

Once the trench has been fully dug, remove any exiting Clay Drain Tile and dispose of. This is also the time to completely inspect your Foundation for any cracks, and repair and water-proof as needed.

 

  • Clay Drain Tile Pipe that extends under the Concrete can usually be left in place. Cut the Clay Pipe with a Hacksaw, about 4” away from where it enters the Concrete for your Home, in order to allow you to attach your Rubber Sleeve, which will also be attached to your new PVC Drain Tile.

 

 

  • If you intend to have your entire Foundation Water-Proofed by a Professional, see the links at the beginning of this post.

Step 10 – Cut Your Stakes, Install, and Attach String Line

 

Cut your 1” x 2” x 8’ into (4) equal pieces and bevel one end of each Stake to a point (If your Home is not a rectangle, you will need additional stakes for each face). Pound a Stake into each corner of your Home’s Foundation, approximately 6” deep, and about 6” away from your Foundation.

Next, tie your String Line between all Stakes. Using your Line Level, level all String Lines approximately 6” above your base at the highest point (This will place your Line several inches higher at the Sump Pump corner).

 

Step 11 – Create the Proper Pitch for Drainage

 

Now it is time to fine-tune your depth and pitch. Beginning with the corner that your Drain Pipe enters your Home, scrape your Soil to a depth that is 2” below the bottom of the Pipe. This will allow for 2” of Gravel that will be installed under the Drain Tile.

Then, measure from your String Line to the scraped depth (2” below the bottom of your Drain Pipe). At the point that is 10’ away from that lowest point, scrape your Soil to a depth that is 1” less than your first measurement. Do this in both directions.

Next, scrape the 10’ areas in between your (2) measurements so that is gently sloped from the higher measurement to the lower. Repeat this process every 10’, in both directions, around the entire perimeter of your Home, making sure that it is 1” higher for every 10’ of measurement. Any Soil that you may need to add to get the base to the right height should be hand tamped to compact firmly. Recheck your measurements after tamping. It is critical that your pitch be fairly accurate and consistent.

 

  • Remember, the depth of your trench will need to be approximately 2” below the bottom of your Drain Pipe (to allow for a Gravel base), with a pitch of about 1” for every 10’ going upward to the corner furthest away from your Sump Pump. So, your trench will be 1” less deep for every 10’ away from your Sump Pump until you reach the furthest corner away from your Sump Pump, going both clockwise and counter-clockwise around your Home. This pitch is critical to allow for proper drainage.

 

  • Any time that you add Soil to adjust your depth, you should tamp that Soil with your Hand Tamper, using a piece of Cardboard between the Soil and the Tamper to prevent the Soil from sticking to it. Always recheck your depth measurements after tamping.

 

  • Use your Flat Spade Shovel to scrape up any excess Soil when attempting to reach a depth, attempting to keep your pitch gradual. Always remember, when making your measurements, be sure to add 2” to your depth, to allow for your Gravel base below your Pipes.

Step 12 – Install 2” of Gravel Below New Piping

 

Once the correct depth and pitch has been achieved around your entire perimeter, install a 2” layer of Gravel before installing your Pipes. Check your measurements to your String Line before and after installing your Gravel to make sure that you are installing the correct amount and that your Grade remains correct. Add or remove any Gravel as necessary and recheck your depth and pitch in these areas.

 

  • Once you are happy with the pitch surrounding your entire Home, load up your Wheelbarrow or Backhoe Bucket with Gravel and begin installing a 2” base around your entire perimeter. You will constantly need to check your depth by measuring with your Tape Measure from the String Line, before and after installing your Gravel, so that your pitch remains consistent.

Step 13 – Install Filter Fabric or Landscape Cloth

 

Now, you need to install a layer of Landscape Fabric over your Gravel base before laying your Pipe. Assuming your Landscape Fabric came in a 3’ width, simply center it over your Gravel. You can tuck in the 6” excess on either side with your Flat Spade Shovel.

Step 14 – Install Your Drain Tile Pipe

 

Now, lay down all of your Drain Pipe end to end (no Sleeve connections at this time). Recheck your depth and pitch, make any necessary corrections, and recheck your depth and pitch again. Once the depth and pitch is correct completely around the entire perimeter, remove your String Line (leave your Stakes installed) and install your Drain Tile Pipe, making all necessary connections.

 

  • Lay your Perforated Drain Tile Pipe end to end in the bottom of the trench, about 1” – 2” away from your Foundation. Make sure that the Perforations are oriented Horizontally (on the sides). Just lay the Pipe end to end. Do not make any connections with your Sleeves at this time.

 

  • Recheck your depth and pitch from your String Line to your Pipes. Make any final necessary adjustments. Once you are satisfied that all is good, you can remove the String Line (temporarily leave your Stakes installed at this time).

 

  • Beginning at the Clay Pipe extension near your Sump Pump, connect your Rubber Sleeve to the Clay Pipe first. Then, using your PVC Pipe Cutter or Hacksaw, cut a piece of PVC Pipe about 4” long. Attach your Rubber Sleeve to the 4” piece of Pipe that you have cut. Make sure that both the Clay Pipe and the PVC Pipe are installed all the way in to the center of the Rubber Sleeve and that the Clamps have been tightened securely on both ends. Make sure that the Pipe is kept with the Perforations oriented Horizontally (on the sides).

 

  • Now, take your Tape Measure, and measure the inside depth of your ‘T’ Connector from the end to the point where the 4” piece of Pipe will be inserted. Using this measurement, measure from the end of your 4” piece of PVC Pipe and mark the Pipe with your Magic Marker (just a dot will do) indicating the point of insertion.

  • Take your PVC Cleaner Solution, and using the Dabber provided within the Cleaner, apply the Cleaner to both the inner area of your ‘T’ Connector and to the outer area on your Pipe. Use your scrap piece of 2” x 4” to support your Pipe from coming into contact with the Gravel. Let the Cleaner dry for about 10 seconds.

 

  • Next, apply your PVC Cement to the inside of your ‘T’ Connector that will be attached to your PVC Pipe. Make sure that the Cement completely surrounds the inside of the Connector, but do not over apply. Also, spread the PVC Cement on the entire outer area of your Pipe that will fit into the Connector (from the end to your mark).

 

  • At this point you will need to work fast to complete the assembly before the Cement dries. Align the Connector and the Pipe about a quarter turn from their final orientation. Then twist the Connector that quarter turn as you press it onto the Pipe. Twisting the Connector helps spread the Cement evenly to ensure a solid joint. Make sure that your Pipe is completely installed into your Connector and square. You can use the scrap piece of 2” x 4” and your Rubber Mallet to bang on the end of the Connector to make sure that the Pipe is completely in. Hold the Pipe and Sleeve together for about 15 seconds until the Cement grabs. If you let go immediately, the Pipe may push out of the Connector, resulting in a weak joint.

 

  • Once the first connection is dry, you can begin installing your 10’ sections of Pipe, along with Sleeves, connecting each piece of Pipe to the next. Use the same method as your first connection. Repeat this process for the entire length of the 1st side of your Home’s perimeter, attaching additional Pipes and Sleeves as needed until you nearly reach the 1st corner of your Home. Make sure that each Pipe is installed so that after rotating it about 1/4 turn to insure that the Cement is spread evenly, the Perforations remain oriented Horizontally (on the sides). At this point, you will probably need to cut the final Pipe for you to complete that side. Do your cutting before you install the Pipe into your final Sleeve for that side of your Home.

 

  • Now, measure the inside of one end of your PVC 90 degree Elbow, from the furthest point of insertion to the outer edge. Also, measure your Sleeve the same way. Add these (2) measurements together. Then measure the length from the end of your final Sleeve for that side of your Home, to where the beginning of your 90 degree Elbow will be located. Add this to your other total. This will give you the length that your final Pipe for that side of your Home.

 

  • Using this measurement, measure from the end of your PVC Pipe and mark the Pipe with your Magic Marker indicating where you will cut.

 

  • Using your PVC Cutter or Hacksaw, cut the Pipe on the mark, keeping your cut as square as possible. Once cut, you will need to debur the end of the Pipe in order to remove any imperfections. You can do this with either your Stanley Knife, a File, or some 80 Grit Coarse Sandpaper. Once you have deburred the end of the Pipe, dry fit your Pipe, Sleeve, and Elbow to make sure that the Pipe has been completely deburred and that the length of your Pipe is correct.

 

  • Once the correct length has been confirmed, remove the Pipe and Elbow. Use your Cleaner on the inside of the Sleeve, as well as the outside end of the Pipe that will be installed into the Sleeve only (not the end that will be attached to the Elbow). Then, apply your Cement to the Sleeve and the Pipe and fit the two together (making sure that your Perforations are aligned).

 

  • Next, before you Clean and Cement the Elbow to the Pipe, you should mark both the Elbow and the Pipe with marks indicating where the final orientation of your Elbow will be, insuring that the end that will begin your next Home’s side will be pitched at the correct angle. Dry fit your Elbow, and mark about 1/2” long on both the Elbow and the Pipe where the final orientation will be lined up.

 

  • Then, use your PVC Cleaner on this final connection on that side. Make sure that you have used your Cleaner on the inside of your Elbow, as well as on the outside end of your Pipe. Support your Pipe with your 2” x 4” as you did before.

 

  • Then, apply your PVC Cement to the Elbow and the Pipe, and initially begin installing the Elbow at about 1/4 turn from your marks lining up. Twist the Elbow as you slide it onto the Pipe until your marks are aligned. Hold and let dry.

 

  • Continue around your perimeter until all connections have been made.

Step 15 – Cover Your Pipes With Gravel and Fabric

 

Before installing your Gravel, reset your String Line around the perimeter, placing it at 12” above your Pipes. Then, cover the pipes with 12” of your Clean, Coarse Gravel (which will be up to your String Line).

 

  • Reset your String Line around your perimeter at 12” above your Pipes.

 

  • Then, fill your Wheelbarrow or your Backhoe Bucket with Gravel, and install the Gravel up to the String Line.

 

  • Once all of the Gravel has been installed and leveled out, remove the String Line and the Stakes.

Step 16 – Replace Your Soil in the Trench

 

Using your Long-Handled Pointed Shovel and Pick, replace the Soil that was removed when digging the trench, compacting it with your Hand Tamper after every 6” of Soil reinstalled. Make sure to use Cardboard between your Tamper and the Soil to prevent Soil from adhering to the Tamper.

Referring to the note that you made concerning the depth of your Black Dirt Topsoil, remember to begin installing that Soil when you reach that point in your trench. You will have about 14” of Soil left over as a result of installing the Gravel. Make sure that the leftover Soil is your Clay Soil, and that you replace your good Topsoil at the top of the trench. You will either need to find a use for this leftover Soil, or you will need to have it hauled away.

Step 17 – Replace Your Plantings

 

Replace your Plantings and water them thoroughly once they have been planted.

 

If you have water collecting in other areas of your Yard, refer to my Post:  Fixing Standing Water – Yard

Congratulation on Your Completion!

You must surely be glad that this Project is over! Big Job!

Hopefully this will put an end to any unwanted Basement water.

 

Please take the time to leave a Comment or ask a Question in the Comments section below. Let me know how your Project went.

 

Sincerely,

CJ Dodaro

 

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